How it works
What actually happens, step by step
Almost all of this job is preparation. The film is the easy part, and the enjoyable one, but what decides whether you still love it in five years happens long before any of it goes on.
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Site survey
We measure, identify the substrate and check its condition. MDF, particle board, laminate, metal, previously painted timber and glass all behave differently, and the substrate decides both the preparation and whether the job is possible at all.
Bring us a photo first and we can usually tell you before we visit.
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Choose your finish
Over 500 finishes across wood, stone, metal, textile and flat colour. We bring physical samples, because screens shift colour, and a finish that looks warm on a phone can read cool in a north-facing room.
Colour varies slightly between production lots, so we order one lot per area and keep a run together.
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Preparation
Degrease, sand, fill, and chase out every last trace of dust. Cut edges on MDF and particle board are sanded back by hand. This is where most of the hours go, and none of it will ever be visible to you, which is exactly the point.
Film follows the surface underneath it. It does not hide a dent. It reproduces it.
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Primer
LX Hausys PM-04, the primer specified for this film. Cut edges on wood-based board drink it up, so those take two or three coats, each one dried fully before the next.
Skipping or rushing the primer is the single most common cause of a wrap lifting later.
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Installation
Film is applied on site with the temperature held between 15 and 25 °C. Seams are planned onto panel lines and sightline edges, and we show you where they will fall before we start. Edges are wrapped and pressed down hard, especially at bends and overlaps.
Deeply embossed and thicker films need more pressure at returns, or the edge lifts.
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Handover
We walk the room with you while it is still new to you, leave care instructions, and write down every finish code, so if you extend the kitchen or match a door two years from now, we can order from the same lot family.
Keep the codes. They are the only reliable way to match later.
Why temperature matters here more than anywhere else
The manufacturer specifies that the site is held between 15 and 25 °C from 72 hours before installation until 48 hours after it. That is a straightforward instruction in a temperate country. In Singapore it is the hardest condition on the list. The outdoor average sits above the top of that band every month of the year.
In practice it means we work in a closed, air-conditioned space and we plan around it. It is also why we ask about the aircon at the survey, and why an open corridor or an unconditioned outdoor surface is a different conversation.
The primer table, and which row Singapore is on
PM-04 is diluted with water, and the ratio and drying time change with the season. The manufacturer publishes three rows:
| Season | Months | Primer | Water | Dry time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Winter | Dec–Mar | 1 | 1 | 24 h |
| Spring / autumn | Apr–May, Oct–Nov | 1 | 1.5 | 12 h |
| Summer | Jun–Sep | 1 | 2 | 8 h |
Singapore is on the summer row all year: a 1:2 dilution and around eight hours of drying. Humidity pushes that longer rather than shorter, which is why a full kitchen is a two- or three-day job and not a one-day one.
What we will tell you not to wrap
Film needs a surface that is flat, sound and dry. Swollen or delaminating board has to be replaced. Bare or painted plaster, textured paint and wallpaper are not substrates. Fabric, rattan and open weaves cannot be wrapped at all. Acrylic can bubble, so it gets checked before we commit to it.
Saying no to a surface costs us one job. Wrapping it anyway costs us the reference.
Send us a photo of the surface
We will tell you what the substrate looks like to us, whether it can be wrapped, and what preparation it would need.
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